For a while now we have wanted to put sliding barn doors on our pantry. My husband has been home since the start of the pandemic, so we have had time to get a lot of our projects done. These sliding barn doors are going to add value to our home and have made our home more inviting and warm.
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With pencil in hand I started measuring the pantry door opening height and width. Once I had the opening size, I took the width and divided it in half and added 1 3/4” to allow overlap on the sliding doors. I did 1 3/4” since the 1×4 clear pine I used is actually 3.5”. There for adding 1 3/4 of an inch to each door will allow overlap.
Everything aside from the track kit was purchased locally, we have linked to some comparable products on Amazon.
To figure out how much 1”x4” pine I needed I drew a small sketch confirming how I was going to make it. I came up with needing 4 boards per door with this design, so 8, 1”x4”x8’ pieces of clear pine were needed for these doors. Then one extra piece to be used as a valance to hide the track later. You could also use 1”x2” pine for a thinner valance or like I did and use real barn board cut to size.
Before I put anything together I wanted to “dry fit” or cut everything and lay it out first. I wanted to do this to ensure I had everything cut right. Sand all the edges and corners lightly. Then stain all the lumber and if there were any cut marks after, I would touch them up as I go. Once the stain was dry, I took 10 of my T & G pine to make a 35” door, and cut them to the length I needed. Next I took two clear pine boards and cut them to the same length. Laying the T & G on my sawhorses, making sure the ends were flush. Then placed the two clear pine on either edge of the door making sure they were flush, then clamped everything in place. Including clamping across the door to snug the tongue and grove together.
Next I cut the three clear pine boards going across the door width wise, spanning the space between the two pine boards on the edge. Placing one on the top and bottom of the door, then centring the middle one. Clamping everything in place and making sure everything fit tight. Using the largest clamp to squeeze the pine T & G together but not to tight it buckles. Loaded my air nail gun with 1/2” staples and attached all the tongue and grove to the clear pine.
Now that the door is tacked together I flipped the door over and attached more cross bracing along the back of the door for added strength. For bracing along the back I used the same tongue and grove pine, since it is thin 9/16”, laying them across the same spot as the trim on the front. Doing this helps tie the outside 2 boards to the centre boards. Nailing them in place with 3/4” nails. Doing the same for both doors.
Next was to cut and fit the diagonal pieces of clear pine on the front. To do this I cut my 8’ board in half. Lining the board up where I wanted them and marking my cut lines. Then took a straight edge and drew a line to create my diagonal cut line. It’s better to start by cutting the your piece a littler bit bigger and taking small amounts off till you have a tight fit. Also keep in mind that the diagonal boards should be mirrored on the second door. Now that my diagonal boards are cut and edges sanded lightly. I stained them to match the rest of the door and attached them to the door with 1/2”staple, mirroring them on the second door.
The door track that I purchased is 72” long and it needed to be cut down to fit my pantry opening using an angle grinder or hacksaw. I attached the track to the centre of the door jamb. Following the instruction that came with the track door kit, I proceed to hang the doors in place.
To hide the sliding door track you can purchase one more clear pine board and stain it to match the door. I used old barn board I cut to 2” wide by the length of my opening. I then added a couple of brackets in front of the track and screwed the valance in place.
Last few things I did was add a bracket to the inside of the one door to hang our small kitchen ladder. If you are screwing anything in to the door make sure it is going to be screwed into the clear pine for strength and so you don’t put a hole in your door. Lastly I sprayed the roller wheel with spray lubricant to allow them to roll smoother.
This project I would say was easy to medium difficulty. The hardest part was cutting the diagonal boards on the front. The rest was pretty straight forward. Even if it turns out to be a little wonky if you make one, you can just say its adds to the rustic feel.. If you have any questions or you found this helpful let us know in the comments.